City Guides

Connoisseur’s Guide to Palermo old town

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Written by Aksel Ritenis
palermo1The Palermo Old Town can spring surprises! Wandering around the little streets now and then emerges a little, quiet town square with a beautiful baroque castle that is scenically illuminated at night. For example, Piazza San Francesco with Antica Focacceria San Francesco next to it – this famous and historic address originated in 1834 when the chef of the palace court opened a pub there. Many celebrities and historic figures have had a meal here: Giuseppe Garibaldi, Luigi Pirandello, Francesco Krispi. Today the guests can enjoy a meal in a hall with official red walls and golden yellow tablecloths that more resembles a restaurant than a pub as it was before. Here you can taste Crocchè di latte (milk croquettes), Frittelle di fave, pisellie carciofi (fritted, pickled beanswith peas and artichokes), Bucatini con le sarde (noodles with sardines) as well as many other dishes prepared following Sicilian gastronomic traditions.

One of the most important Palermo streets is Corso Vittorio Emanuele that stretches from the town square Palazzo dei Normanni to the cathedral and further to the sea. This town square is always crowded with tourists, businessmen and politicians. During lunch break (which in Palermo is at 13:30) in the traditional local “Trattoria Al Normanni”, located directly beside the cathedral, there are no openings. However, the owner of the local Giuseppe Mancella usually, seemingly from nowhere, conjures up a free table just for you! The fi sh here are outstanding and just caught.


Not far from Vucciria Square is located the Arabic and baroque style Kalsa square. In its centre there is a beautiful church – Santa Teresa alla Kalsa. In the afternoon in the church plaza old men gather for an improvised card game.

The Kalsa and Vucciria squares are connected with small, narrow streets. To meander through these narrow streets the drivers need special skills and the grace of Palermo’s protectress Saint Rosalia. Right in the middle is located the famous Gangi castle which watches over the Piazza Croce dei Vespri plaza. A modern art gallery has been founded near the castle.


About the author

Aksel Ritenis

Axel is the Editor and Publisher of Connoisseur Magazine "for the Finer Things in Life" and has been the custodian of the magazine for over 10 years and leader of a team of freelance Journalists and Community Members who continue to make it all happen!-Join the Team at Connoisseur Magazine!

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