THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE Wine and Food Diary of Giles MacDonogh

Eating Out at a Price: March Food and Wine

Written by Giles MacDonogh

Eating Out at a Price: March Food and Wine


As a former restaurant critic, the tragic situation in London causes me no small amount of grief. So many old friends have gone, and so many more are struggling; struggling to find staff, and struggling to put out a menu that is both attractive and attractively priced. Many go in for a limited formula, where the restaurant offers just three hors d’oeuvres, three main courses and a trio of desserts. In the first two categories, at least, there will be one meat, one fish and a veg option, making chicken inevitable. It is not really cheap and, to cap it all, you struggle to find two wines on the list for under £50 a bottle.

Main principles

Gay Hussar in Greek Street Transformed  into the Noble Rot Wine Bar


“One restaurant that disappeared years before the current crisis was the Gay Hussar in Greek Street. The Gay Hussar opened in 1953, long before the name began to raise eyebrows. It closed in 2018, after decades of being the Labour Party’s favourite watering-hole, frequented by the likes of Michael Foot, Denis Healey and the Roys Jenkins and Hattersley. In those days, more MPs wrote books, sometimes quite good books.”

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Giles MacDonogh

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