Wine Dinner at Russiz Superiore – Capriva del Friuli (GO)
Massimo Mottura Chef at Osteria la Francescana in Modena,– Marco Felluga: author’s of Cuisine and Wines
Dinner served with a vertical of Collio Bianco Col Disore
A dinner in the Collio, with the creations of “Italian best chef ever” Massimo Bottura paired with Russiz Superiore wines, historic estate of Marco Felluga, a leader in oenology of Friuli. This happened on July, in a memorable evening, that sealed the match between author’s cuisine and prestigious wines, that is between Massimo Bottura and Marco Felluga.
Roberto Felluga welcomed his guests together with his father Marco and his wife Elena. Leaded in the path of taste, by Massimo Bottura, owner of the Osteria la Francescana in Modena, 3 stars Michelin, the fifth chef in the world rankings in Word’s 50 Best Restaurants, Chef’s Choice 2011, the best in the world according to his colleagues vote. An extraordinary man withstyle and simplicity, he reminded all the presents that “humility, passion, dreams” were the three cornerstones that have always characterized his search path and that the true modern kitchen can be just of “evolution, not revolution.”
The leitmotif of the dinner was “Come to Italy with me”. Bottura invited to essay a path of taste and search through the flavors, that from North to South, make unique Italian cuisine. All flavors were perfectly identifiable, rigorous and essential. Bottura harmonized all of them with an amazing alchemy (including some of his classics). To enhance the food, an extraordinary portrait of Collio Bianco Col Disôre Russiz Superiore, declared as one of the “twelve white immortals” of Italian enology.
“In order to fully understand the roots – in the vineyard – and the complexity and harmony – in the bottle – as final result of the Collio Bianco Col Disôre, the tasting was anticipated by the 4 mono-varieties that make up it: Ribolla Gialla 2010 Marco Felluga was combined with finger food, Pinot Blanc Reserve 2007Russiz Superiore with toast of leeks, shallots and truffles; the Friulano 2011 Russiz Superiore with“remember the mortadella sandwich” and Sauvignon Riserva 2008 Russiz Superiore with Parmigiano Reggiano aged 36 months and a balsamic vinegar with a 45-year-reserve of Massimo Bottura family.”
“Granita with Sicily concentrated scents” – Collio Bianco Col Disôre 2009
We are in the South of Italy with this slush that breaks the borders between sweet and salty. It’s on a basis of natural Almond of Noto water extraction, blended with bergamot, wild oregano, capers, concentrated coffee. Served with the Collio Bianco Col Disôre 2009. It shows up especially the Friuliano bitter hints that bind well in particular to the bitter and salty capers.
“Codfish Mare Nostrum” – Collio Bianco Col Disôre 2006
The trip back up to the North, following the path of those extraordinary “distributors of raw materials” that Bottura researches with passion. The memory of Mediterranean joins those of his childhood memories. Codfish, with a pesto of dried tomatoes and almonds, served with a liquid salsa of Sicilian olive, tomato water and lemon. The flavors of the dish are perfectly recalled in 2006 Collio Bianco Col Disôre characterized by a greater complexity of aromas and structure.
“Think Green” – Collio Bianco Col Disôre 2003\
The story about the true essence of Parmesan cheese, made from the milk of the Bianca Modenese, a kind of Italian cow, free to graze in the open. The whole, finished with milk curd obtained the morning of the dinner, and made creamy and blended. Chlorophyll natural gel, with spring vegetables, marinated pore mushrooms, Parmigiano Reggiano curd and truffle, served with the Collio Bianco Col Disôre 2003; its notes of ripe pear butter bind well to pore mushrooms and enhances the mild acidity of the dish.
“Compression of pasta and beans” – Collio Bianco Col Disôre 2001
Bottura’s journey has now come to the North and interprets one of its most traditional dishes, the pasta and beans. The pasta is replaced with Parmigiano Reggiano rinds, boiled into beans and cut thin. This recollection of his childhood (and in particular of the grandmother) is the heart of the glass with alternating layers of Creme Royale, foie gras, beans, covered with a slight air of rosemary. A tribute for his master chefs: the first, Alain Ducasse (Creme Royale) and the last in order of time, Ferran Adrià (foie gras). This is the one of the best creations of Bottura. The combination in this case is with the Collio Bianco Col Disôre 2001, that surrounds the flavors with the complexity and softness that characterize it.
“Veal Roast with beetroot emulsion” – Collio Rosso Riserva 1994 Orzoni
It does not need the knife to be cut, gently roasted in a pork’s net. The meat is served with tubers that carry the aromas of the earth. Truffles, artichokes, celeriac and a balsamic beetroot emulsion. The combination is with a great red, representative of Russiz Superiore, the Collio Rosso Riserva Orzoni 1994, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This wine is still in its ascendant phase and it is characterized for its spicy, elegance and complexity. It confirms the potential of Collio in the production of red wines.
“Fois Gras with crispy heart of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena” – Horus 2005
Eat with the joy of a child enjoying the ice cream crunchy. Piedmont hazelnuts and Noto almonds cover a heart of Fois gras. Another “stroke of genius” of Bottura, combined with Horus 2005, the interpretation that Roberto Felluga gave to the Picolit, a sweet wine blend of Picolit 90%, 5% Sauvignon, 5% Friulano.
Come to Italy with me – Water
Crunchy, soft, sweet, salty, sour, spicy … in a well-defined perceptions dessert that has combined in a single dish the path and philosophy of the dinner. Tomato confit, taggiasca olive, Modena black cherry, almond, hazelnut, hot mousse of Buffalo mozzarella, crispy mint … .A series of products, in small pieces, originating from all over Italy, only apparently juxtaposed. Impossible any combination, except the one with water.