ARCHIVES 2009-2023 FINE WINE Articles & Reviews

A Rennaissance of German Riesling

Anne Krebiehl
Written by Aksel Ritenis

A Rennaissance of German Riesling

“Could it be that the success of so many New World Rieslings has awakened a taste for the original? Could it be that tasting some Eden Valley, Marlborough or Washington examples has made us curious to approach those slender German flutes with their often Gothic lettering, bewildering nomenclature and frankly disastrous appellation regulations? Re-visiting and re-assessing Rieslings from Germany, where they find their strongest and purest expressions is a rewarding journey, full of twists and turns and unexpected vistas.”

 

The sheer breadth of styles is breathtaking: from ethereal, gossamer-like light Kabinett wines that are a mere but definite touch of lemon, via serious and grown-up food wines in dry and off-dry styles that can encompass flavours ranging anywhere from sun-ripened peaches, the beguiling evening scent of white summer blossom, honey, dried dates and raisins, fresh limes, lemons and grapefruits, candied orange peel to deep and more indescribable notions of kerosene, wet wool and lanolin, pencil shavings and stones. Entering the world of the sweet wines, with or without botrytis, extends this arc of flavour even further towards almond and hazelnut, chocolate, caramel and toffee, super-charged tropical fruit and scents so deep and earthy that you think you may just have had a whiff of the next world. What all of those styles have in common though, is the razing acidity, the backbone of any good Riesling.

About the author

Aksel Ritenis

Axel is the Editor and Publisher of Connoisseur Magazine "for the Finer Things in Life" and has been the custodian of the magazine for over 10 years and leader of a team of freelance Journalists and Community Members who continue to make it all happen!-Join the Team at Connoisseur Magazine!

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