The Top 12 Champagnes of 2020
Tyson Stelzer
Australia’s hard border closure this year sadly precluded all of my tastings and travels in the Champagne region. I am grateful to the houses, growers and chef de caves for the opportunity to discover their latest releases through my webinars and tastings in Brisbane. Here are the 12 best new releases of 2020.
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2008
50–60% Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, the pillars of Comtes, supported by Oger, Chouilly and Cramant; 5–6% (Chouilly component) aged (not fermented) in young oak barrels (1/3 new & the balance up to 4 years old) for 4–5 months, not for strength, but to add body & subtle notes of toast, brioche, burnt vanilla & coconut to the delicacy of chardonnay; 9g/L dosage.
Taittinger’s flagship Comtes de Champagne holds an enviable position among the very finest blanc de blancs and it is fitting that the lauded 2008 is my Champagne of the Year. The depth of reach of the house into the Côte des Blancs grand crus has made this one of Champagne’s most consistent flagships, and one or two points ahead of Salon in my book in every vintage of the 2000s to date. Every even-numbered vintage since 1996 has been nothing short of transcendental. ‘We are lucky to work with a huge quantity of wines from the Côte des Blancs, allowing us to choose the best samples for Comtes de Champagne each year,’ explains cellar master Loïc Dupont. ‘We look for the vats that represent the typicity of each cru, to build the expression of the vintage. Avize brings elegance, finesse and balance, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger contributes body and a subtle reduction akin to grilled bread, Chouilly delivers roundness, Cramant grilled almonds, and Oger elegant citrus.’
